This is a beautiful and remote alpine summit involving plenty of time on incredibly steep and exposed climbing to get to the summit. Our guides will often help make the final decision of route choice based on the conditions they are finding on the mountain.
For the summit day, we’ll establish our basecamp near the toe of the Northeast Arete. This camp is in a beautiful place, with entire East Face of North Sister looming above. The climb will start out by climbing the ridge directly on steep snow. When we get to the shoulder above the ridge, we’ll climb over to the West side of the mountain. Continuing up we’ll be making a traverse up towards the summit. The summit pitch is stunningly steep and exposed, providing the climber with several thousand feet of exposure below their boot soles.
On the North Sister climbs, we allow our guides to choose the route based on weather and conditions. Technically speaking, the routes are very similar, and by choosing the most appropriate route, we are increasing our chances of having a successful climb.
We are able to schedule this climb Monday through Thursday only between Memorial Day and Labor Day, because of limitations on all commercial permits in the Deschutes-Willamette National Forest.