Equipment List: Overnight Alpine Climbs - Difficult and Advanced

Use this equipment list if you are on any overnight alpine climb listed as difficult or advanced, except for routes on Mount Hood.

You must have all the items on this list at your climber orientation regardless of season or forecast. Please call us if you have any questions. Your guide will not let you climb if you don’t have appropriate gear. Please arrive at your meet-time dressed for the activity. There will be time for questions and adjustments.

Please note that we are UNABLE to provide rental equipment for programs outside of Mount Hood. This includes trips in the Three Sisters Wilderness and in Washington State. Click here for information about rental outfits in the area of your trip.

Clothing

Underwear – Wool or synthetic (ex: Men’s Ortovox Base Layers, Women’s Ortovox Base Layers )
Socks – 2 pairs of wool or synthetic. Some people like a thinner wool sock with a liner sock underneath. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Socks, Women’s Ortovox Socks)
Long Underwear – Medium weight tops and bottoms. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Base Layers, Women’s Ortovox Base Layers)
T-shirt – Synthetic, quick-drying (ex: Men’s Ortovox T-Shirts, Women’s Ortovox T-Shirts)
Lightweight Fleece Top (ex: Men’s Ortovox Hoodies and Fleece Jackets, Women’s Ortovox Hoodies and Fleece Jackets)
Softshell Top (ex: Men’s Ortovox Softshell Jackets, Women’s Ortovox Softshell Jackets)
Hiking/Softshell Pants (ex: Men’s Ortovox Softshell Pants, Men’s Ortovox Lightweight Pants, Women’s Ortovox Softshell Pants, Women’s Ortovox Lightweight Pants)
Waterproof-breathable Pants – Waterproof, breathable pants without insulation; full-length side-zipper highly recommended for putting on over boots when the weather gets severe. Gore-Tex is one such material used by many manufacturers. (ex: Men’s Mammut Nordwand, Women’s Mammut Nordwand, Men’s Ortovox Hardshell Pants, Women’s Ortovox Hardshell Pants)
Waterproof-breathable Jacket – Waterproof, breathable jacket without insulation; requires a helmet-compatible hood. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Hardshell Jacket, Women’s Ortovox Hardshell Jacket)
Insulated Parka – Required, with a helmet-compatible hood and either down or Primaloft insulation. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Zinal Jacket, Women’s Ortovox Zinal Jacket) (Micro-puff jackets are too light for potential conditions.)
Light-weight Gloves – Windproof gloves, for warmer conditions. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Tour Glove, Women’s Ortovox Tour Glove)
Medium-weight Gloves – Lightly insulated, waterproof. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Mountain Glove, Women’s Ortovox Mountain Glove)
Heavy-weight Gloves/Mittens- Waterproof, insulated (ex: Men’s Ortovox Freeride Mitten, Women’s Ortovox Freeride Mitten)
Warm Hat – Wool or synthetic, and snug enough to wear under a helmet. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Hats and Neckwarmers, Women’s Ortovox Hats and Neckwarmers)
Buff, or Balaclava – Protection from wind, cold and sun. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Neckwarmers, Women’s Ortovox Neckwarmers)
Sun Hat – The more coverage the better. Baseball caps or packable sun hats will work (ex: Outdoor Research Hats)
Gaiters – For soft, slushy snow conditions. Gaiters can also protect from tripping and/or ripping pants with crampons. (ex: Outdoor Research Mountaineering Gaiters)

Personal Gear

Lunch/Snacks – 1 lb per day of a variety of tasty, high energy foods
Water Bottles – Two 1-liter bottles required. No bladders allowed for risk of freezing and/or breaking. (ex: Nalgene)
Sunglasses or Glacier Glasses – Should be high-quality, dark, large and fit snugly or have side-shields. (ex: Julbo Mountain Sunglasses)
Ski Goggles – Clear or light in color, in case of blowing snow. (ex: Julbo Goggles)
Sun Block – SPF 30 or higher
Lip Balm – SPF 15 or higher
Toilet Paper – Just in case! Blue bags will be available at most trailheads.
Headlamp – For alpine starts (ex: Petzl Headlamps)
Personal First Aid Kit – Moleskin, ibuprofen, aspirin, antacids, personal prescriptions, band-aids.

Technical Climbing Gear

Mountaineering boots – Full-shank if climbing ice (ex: La Sportiva Nepal Evo, Scarpa Phantom Tech, Zamberlan Mountain Pro Evo, Koflach Degre, and Scarpa Inverno) 3/4 shank if climbing alpine rock or doing lots of mileage on trail
Approach shoes – optional
Crampons – 10 or 12-point, steel crampons. Aluminum crampons aren’t suitable for typical steep climbing in the Cascades. (ex: Petzl Vasak)
Snowshoes – Sometimes needed for climbs in April and May. Please enquire with the office if you will need these provided.
Ice Axe – 50 to 65cm long. (ex: Petzl Summit)
Overnight Climbing Pack – 40-55 liters (ex: Ortovox Peak 45)
Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets – Highly recommended for saving energy on the way up and your knees on the descent. (ex: Leki Trekking Poles, Black Diamond Trekking Poles)
Climbing Harness – Alpine-style (ex: Edelrid Loopo Lite, Petzl Altitude)
Climbing Helmet – (ex: Edelrid Zodiac, Petzl Boreo)
Belay Device – tube-style with two slots for rappelling (ex: Petzl Reverso)
Double-length sewn sling – 2 foot loop

Technical Gear for Difficult and Advanced Climbs

*Please contact the office if you are not sure which items you need. Or, bring them just in case, and ask your guide at the trailhead.

2nd Ice Tool – 50-55 cm tool with hammer (not adze) (ex: Petzl Quark) Most climbers benefit from having a second tool on difficult alpine routes. Sometimes we put this tool away and use our hands.
Pair of Ice Tools – 50-55 cm matching tools with hammers(ex: Petzl Quark) This is recommended for the North Ridge of Mount Baker and the North Face of Hood.
Rock climbing shoes – some harder alpine rock climbing objectives benefit from wearing rock shoes. This is recommended for the West Ridge of Mount Washington and the North Ridge of Forbidden.