Reid Glacier Headwall

Ratio: 2:1
Length: 1 day
Price: 1 climber $575
2 $530 per climber
Dates: Custom dates are available in April and May
Location: Southwest side of Mount Hood

The Reid Glacier Headwall climb of Mt. Hood is a fantastic and challenging early season climb on the southwest side of Mt. Hood. The route climbs a steep and sustained line, following various chutes and gullies up steep snow to the summit ridge.

Climbing the Reid Headwall on Mt. Hood is a big day, it requires serious endurance to climb unrelenting terrain for pitch after pitch. To begin with, we start our climbs from the Timberline Lodge, aiming for the Illumination Saddle, either in a snowcat or on foot.

After a break at the saddle, we drop down onto the Reid Glacier of Mt. Hood. We navigate crevasses and a bergschrund to access the steep climbing. Many roped pitches wind us through gullies, up snow-ribs and around icy towers. Eventually, we make it to the rime ice covered summit ridge for a traverse to the highest point in Oregon. We descend via a route on the south side, heading back toward the Timberline Lodge.

The Reid Headwall can be found in a variety of conditions – from calf-pumping ice to quad-burning snow. Routes with this sustained of technical climbing on steep snow are not all that common, lending the Reid Headwall “classic” status in the Pacific Northwest.

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Reid Headwall

Southwest side of Mount Hood

The Reid Glacier Headwall is a difficult alpine ice route. It entails a series of gullies of ice and steep snow, and usually dozens of pitches of roped climbing before even reaching the summit ridge. Accessing the headwall alone, requires a steep snow descent onto the Reid Glacier, and navigating crevasses and a bergschrund to access the route.

Elevation: 11,239 feet
Style: Steep snow and alpine ice to 55°
Skill Level: Difficult
Reid- Mtn
george

"I am very happy with my TMG experience. The guides were professional, personable, and extremely concerned about safety. . . I absolutely give highest marks to these guys. If you don't have much Alpine experience, or just want the security of seasoned veterans guiding you up this mountain, then I strongly recommend you sign up with them. Thanks, guys, for a great experience!!"

George C
Highland, UT
malcom

"What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of a mountain we've gazed on from Portland for 25 years! . . . We learned a great deal, had a ton of fun, felt in very capable hands, and had the reward of summiting on a beautiful clear day. The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. Kudos to the TMG team who were responsive, supportive, and fun to work with every step of the way."

Malcolm C
Portland, OR
Lucyan

"We booked 2-day overnight program on Mt. Hood with Timberline Mountain Guides. Our guides were great, . . super friendly and reputable. The program did not go as planned due to inclement weather but we still had fun and good experience. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. I would recommend going with them if it's your first climbing trip on Mt. Hood for sure."

Lucyan
Portland, OR

Skill Series

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Know Before You Go

Prerequisites
  • Climbers should have previous experience on steep snow climbing routes that are moderate to difficult
  • Climbers should have previous ice-climbing experience
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