The Jefferson Park Glacier is the quintessential alpine climb of the Oregon Cascades and is not to be taken lightly. The route encompasses significant steep climbing in all mediums; snow, ice and rock and is sure to stimulate any alpinist.
We’ll approach the climb via the North side of the mountain as we hike our way into the Mount Jefferson wilderness and set up camp high on the mountain.
Day two will begin with an alpine start as we climb the crevassed Jefferson Park glacier placing us at the bergschrund. After negotiating the ‘schrund, we will climb increasingly steep snow eventually gaining a ridge that will lead us to a couple of pitches of exposed fifth class rock and a traverse to the summit pinnacle where we will encounter a couple more pitches of rock before placing us on the top of Oregon’s most difficult peak! We will descend back to our camp to rest and refuel for our hike out on day three.
Significant previous climbing experience is required. This climb is one of the most strenuous in Oregon.
We can only schedule this climb Monday through Thursday because of a restriction on all commercial permits in the Deschutes-Willamette National Forest.