Jefferson Park Glacier

Ratio:2:1
Length:3 days
Price:1 climber $1,350
2 $825 per climber
Dates:Custom dates are available in June and July
Location:Mount Jefferson Wilderness

The Jefferson Park Glacier is the quintessential alpine climb of the Oregon Cascades and is not to be taken lightly. The route encompasses significant steep climbing in all mediums; snow, ice and rock and is sure to stimulate any alpinist.

We’ll approach the climb via the North side of the mountain as we hike our way into the Mount Jefferson wilderness and set up camp high on the mountain.

Day two will begin with an alpine start as we  climb the crevassed Jefferson Park glacier placing us at the bergschrund.  After negotiating the ‘schrund, we will climb increasingly steep snow eventually gaining a ridge that will lead us to a couple of pitches of exposed fifth class rock and a traverse to the  summit pinnacle where we will encounter a couple more pitches of rock before placing us on the top of Oregon’s most difficult peak! We will descend back to our camp to rest and refuel for our hike out on day three.

Significant previous climbing experience is required. This climb is one of the most strenuous in Oregon.

Permit Restriction

We can only schedule this climb Monday through Thursday because of a restriction on all commercial permits in the Deschutes-Willamette National Forest.

Get Started

Interested in a trip? Call us today to get started on your trip reservation. We will take the time to place you on the expedition that is a fit for you.

(541) 312-9242

When you call us you will speak to someone knowledgable about all or our trips and locations.

Or fill out one of our forms to either reach out to us or sign up for a trip.

Jefferson Park Glacier

Mount Jefferson Wilderness

This route is the ultimate everything climb in Oregon. It combines every challenge for an alpine climber: knife-edged ridge climbing, steep snow, huge crevasses and a bergschrund that demands creativity and a full toolbox of skills. Pass all these challenges, and you’ll find the summit pinnacle waiting. Just the look of it wards of many visitors who have made it this far. A trip up and down takes a few hours and there is still an entire descent to manage. You can’t overprepare for this route.

Elevation:10,495 ft
Style:Glacier travel, steep snow, alpine ice, alpine rock and lots of technical rope-work
Skill Level:Advanced
MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA
george

"I am very happy with my TMG experience. The guides were professional, personable, and extremely concerned about safety. . . I absolutely give highest marks to these guys. If you don't have much Alpine experience, or just want the security of seasoned veterans guiding you up this mountain, then I strongly recommend you sign up with them. Thanks, guys, for a great experience!!"

George C
Highland, UT
malcom

"What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of a mountain we've gazed on from Portland for 25 years! . . . We learned a great deal, had a ton of fun, felt in very capable hands, and had the reward of summiting on a beautiful clear day. The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. Kudos to the TMG team who were responsive, supportive, and fun to work with every step of the way."

Malcolm C
Portland, OR
Lucyan

"We booked 2-day overnight program on Mt. Hood with Timberline Mountain Guides. Our guides were great, . . super friendly and reputable. The program did not go as planned due to inclement weather but we still had fun and good experience. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. I would recommend going with them if it's your first climbing trip on Mt. Hood for sure."

Lucyan
Portland, OR

Skills Series

Next Steps

Know Before You Go

Prerequisites
  • Significant previous alpine climbing experience is required to join this trip
Equipment Lists
Policies & Forms
Fitness Requirements
Travel Insurance