The Devil’s Kitchen Headwall has a dense concentration of alpine ice and rime-ice climbing. These 2-4 pitch routes generally lead to the upper pitches of the Wy’East route on their way to the summit. Some of the lines are more direct and avoid the East crater rim.
Our guides’ favorite is a variation called the “Flying Buttress.” It has a great steep section, that can be 2-4 pitches depending on conditions. A steep bulge of rim-ice climbing guards the top of the gully. The snowidge above the narrow chute is a welcome break. It affords a birdseye view of the Devil’s Kitchen and the many South side climbers. But the fun isn’t over.
Continuing along the ridge, we must traverse below a gendarme of rock that blocks access to the summit plateau. Around the East face of the mountain we find a slope of alpine ice stretching towards the skyline above. Two rope-stretching pitches finally bring us to the shoulder of the summit, a short walk from the top.