Devil’s Kitchen Headwall

Ratio: 2:1
Length: 1 day
Price: 1 climber $575
2 $530 per person
Dates: Custom dates are available between April and June
Location: East crater of Mount Hood

The Devil’s Kitchen Headwall has a dense concentration of alpine ice and rime-ice climbing. These 2-4 pitch routes generally lead to the upper pitches of the Wy’East route on their way to the summit. Some of the lines are more direct and avoid the East crater rim.

Our guides’ favorite is a variation called the “Flying Buttress.” It has a great steep section, that can be 2-4 pitches depending on conditions. A steep bulge of rim-ice climbing guards the top of the gully. The snowidge above the narrow chute is a welcome break. It affords a birdseye view of the Devil’s Kitchen and the many South side climbers. But the fun isn’t over.

Continuing along the ridge, we must traverse below a gendarme of rock that blocks access to the summit plateau. Around the East face of the mountain we find a slope of alpine ice stretching towards the skyline above. Two rope-stretching pitches finally bring us to the shoulder of the summit, a short walk from the top.

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Devil's Kitchen Headwall

East crater of Mount Hood

The Devil’s Kitchen Headwall is a candy-store of short alpine ice routes. It’s a great place to push your technical climbing, without the commitment of a long-approach and overnight packs. Most Mount Hood climbers just walk by on their way to the Hogsback, but there is a lot of terrain to explore on the East crater of Mount Hood.

Elevation: 11,239
Style: Steep snow and alpine ice up to 55°
Skill Level: Difficult
DevilsKItch- Mtn
george

"I am very happy with my TMG experience. The guides were professional, personable, and extremely concerned about safety. . . I absolutely give highest marks to these guys. If you don't have much Alpine experience, or just want the security of seasoned veterans guiding you up this mountain, then I strongly recommend you sign up with them. Thanks, guys, for a great experience!!"

George C
Highland, UT
malcom

"What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of a mountain we've gazed on from Portland for 25 years! . . . We learned a great deal, had a ton of fun, felt in very capable hands, and had the reward of summiting on a beautiful clear day. The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. Kudos to the TMG team who were responsive, supportive, and fun to work with every step of the way."

Malcolm C
Portland, OR
Lucyan

"We booked 2-day overnight program on Mt. Hood with Timberline Mountain Guides. Our guides were great, . . super friendly and reputable. The program did not go as planned due to inclement weather but we still had fun and good experience. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. I would recommend going with them if it's your first climbing trip on Mt. Hood for sure."

Lucyan
Portland, OR

Skill Series

Next Steps

  • Reid Glacier Headwall is a significant step up in difficulty and commitment
  • Cooper Spur has more pitches of steep climbing, and involves an overnight camp and carry-over

Know Before You Go

Prerequisites
  • Climbers should have previous experience climbing steep, multipitch snow, or join us for an entry-level snow climb
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