Cooper Spur

Ratio:2:1
Length:2 days
Price:1 climber $900
2 $550 per climber
Dates:May 26-27, 2019
June 15-16, 2019

Custom dates are available in June and early July
Location:Mount Hood

Our two-day itinerary starts at the Timberline Lodge. We ascend the Palmer Snowfield and cross the White River Glacier. From there, we ascend up to the shoulder of the Wy’east. The glacier travel continues, as we cross the Newton-Clark Glacier to our alpine bivy near “Tie-in rock” at the base of the Cooper Spur.

Alpine Bivy

Our camp location is directly below the sweeping face of snow that comprises the Spur. Because it’s so steep we can’t see the summit from our vantage point. Our ascent will be alpine-style – meaning that we’ll go as light as possible and carry all of our camping gear up and over the summit. This strategy, allows us to descend the relatively easy South side route and take a direct line back to the Timberline Lodge.

Carry Over

We’ll get an alpine start to find the best cramponing conditions. By the time the sunrise glints off of the Columbia River, we should be several hundred feet, and 5 or more pitches up the route. The crux of the climb is a narrow section of steep climbing that culminates on a snow arete. From there, a few more pitches of gentler snow climbing lead to the summit. The final thrill is pulling over the lip of snow that forms as a sharp divide between the North side of the crater rim and the rest of the summit plateau. Climbers should be prepared for long and sustained climbing while carrying an overnight pack. Your guide will help you learn to pare your pack down to the minimal necessities in order to keep it light, while still having all the gear that you need for a comfortable trip.

Get Started

Interested in a trip? Call us today to get started on your trip reservation. We will take the time to place you on the expedition that is a fit for you.

(541) 312-9242

When you call us you will speak to someone knowledgable about all or our trips and locations.

Or fill out one of our forms to either reach out to us or sign up for a trip.

Cooper Spur

Mount Hood

Cooper Spur is the iconic steep snow climb on Mount Hood. It provides the most direct moderate route to the summit. There are two optional approaches: a beautiful forested hike, or a technical approach across a glacier. Both lead to an alpine bivy with incredible views of the sunset glancing off the Columbia River. The summit day is over 2,000 feet of steep snow, that tops out with a belay directly on the summit plateau. Descent is typically by the South side route.

Elevation:11,239 feet
Style:Endless pitches of two-tool, steep snow climbing
Skill Level:Difficult
Basecamp North Side Bright
george

"I am very happy with my TMG experience. The guides were professional, personable, and extremely concerned about safety. . . I absolutely give highest marks to these guys. If you don't have much Alpine experience, or just want the security of seasoned veterans guiding you up this mountain, then I strongly recommend you sign up with them. Thanks, guys, for a great experience!!"

George C
Highland, UT
malcom

"What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of a mountain we've gazed on from Portland for 25 years! . . . We learned a great deal, had a ton of fun, felt in very capable hands, and had the reward of summiting on a beautiful clear day. The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. Kudos to the TMG team who were responsive, supportive, and fun to work with every step of the way."

Malcolm C
Portland, OR
Lucyan

"We booked 2-day overnight program on Mt. Hood with Timberline Mountain Guides. Our guides were great, . . super friendly and reputable. The program did not go as planned due to inclement weather but we still had fun and good experience. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. I would recommend going with them if it's your first climbing trip on Mt. Hood for sure."

Lucyan
Portland, OR

Skill Series

Next Steps

  • North Cascades programs offer the next tier of alpine routes if you’re seeking more complex alpine terrain
  • The Reid Glacier Headwall is often alpine ice in early season, and just as long as the Cooper Spur, with more complex route-finding

Know Before You Go

Prerequisites
  • Climbers must have at least 3 steep snow climbs on their resume, or join us on an entry-level steep snow climb to build your climbing experience
Policies & Forms
Fitness Requirements
Travel Insurance