Leuthold’s Couloir

Length:1 day
Price:$725 per climber
Dates:Custom dates are available in May and June
Location:Southwest side of Mount Hood

The Leuthold’s Couloir snakes its way up the west side of Mt. Hood. The climb will begin on the South Side of Mt. Hood at the Timberline Lodge, trending west towards Illumination Rock. Once we’ve gained the Illumination Saddle, we drop down onto the Reid Glacier, bypassing the gullies above until we arrive at the broad fan of snow below Leuthold’s Couloir.

We’ll climb several pitches of steep snow or firm alpine ice, depending on what conditions we find. As we continue up the mountain we’ll eventually gain a beautiful feature called the Queen’s Chair, a large plateau of sorts up high on Mt. Hood. The narrow, steep, and exposed summit ridge guards the mountains true summit from us. This can be a true mental and physical challenge after an already long day of steep climbing.

The Leuthold’s Couloir can also make a fantastic ski descent for the truly advanced and experienced ski mountaineer. Most folks descend on foot down the standard South Side route with the Timberline Lodge as our final destination. Previous steep snow climbing experience and a high degree of physical fitness is required to join us on this route.

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Leuthold's Couloir

Southwest side of Mount Hood

Leuthold’s Couloir is a great steep snow climbs, that is a bit more sustained and a bit steeper than the standard South side routes. It also entails crossing a glacier, which can add an additional challenge later in the Spring. The route affords an incredible view of the mountain with few other climbers. A traverse of the knife-edged summit ridge caps off a memorable ascent, before heading down by the standard South side route.

Elevation:11,239 feet
Style:Steep snow up to 50°
Skill Level:Difficult

"I am very happy with my TMG experience. The guides were professional, personable, and extremely concerned about safety. . . I absolutely give highest marks to these guys. If you don't have much Alpine experience, or just want the security of seasoned veterans guiding you up this mountain, then I strongly recommend you sign up with them. Thanks, guys, for a great experience!!"

George C
Highland, UT

"What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of a mountain we've gazed on from Portland for 25 years! . . . We learned a great deal, had a ton of fun, felt in very capable hands, and had the reward of summiting on a beautiful clear day. The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. Kudos to the TMG team who were responsive, supportive, and fun to work with every step of the way."

Malcolm C
Portland, OR

"We booked 2-day overnight program on Mt. Hood with Timberline Mountain Guides. Our guides were great, . . super friendly and reputable. The program did not go as planned due to inclement weather but we still had fun and good experience. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. I would recommend going with them if it's your first climbing trip on Mt. Hood for sure."

Portland, OR

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