Prouty Glacier Headwall

Ratio: 3:1
Length: 3 days
Price: 1 climber $1,350
2+ $825 per climber
Dates: Custom dates are available in May and June
Location: South Sister

In the early summer the Prouty Glacier Headwall offers a great moderate climb.  Depending on the conditions the climb may require extensive use of crampons and ice axe.  This two day climb is a great way to be exposed to the basics of mountaineering while experiencing what it’s like to travel in a wilderness setting.

We’ll start our trip with a approach hike in towards the North East slopes of South Sister and the Prouty Glacier.  Once in camp we’ll have some time to cover some of the basic skills we may need on our climb the following day.

Our climb day will have us up early as we climb the ever steeping Prouty Glacier.  Climbers can expect to encounter steep snow and late-season ice, requiring skilled use of crampons and ice axe.

Permit Restriction

We are able to schedule this program Monday through Thursday only, because of limitations on all commercial permits in the Deschutes-Willamette National Forest.

Get Started

Interested in a trip? Call us today to get started on your trip reservation. We will take the time to place you on the expedition that is a fit for you.

(541) 312-9242

When you call us you will speak to someone knowledgable about all or our trips and locations.

Or fill out one of our forms to either reach out to us or sign up for a trip.

Prouty Glacier Headwall

South Sister

This route is seldom-climbed because of it’s remote and challenging nature. After a mellow glacier traverse of the Prouty, climbers meet the first obstacle at the bergschrund. The crossing can be easy or difficult depending on conditions. Above, several pitches of steep snow lead to the shoulder of Hodge Crest. From here the summit is attainable with persistence over several hundred more vertical feet of easy snow travel. Descent is via the North Ridge or South side depending on your camp location.

Elevation: 10,358'
Style: Steep snow and a bergschrund crossing
Skill Level: Difficult
SouthsisProuty-Mtn (1)
george

"I am very happy with my TMG experience. The guides were professional, personable, and extremely concerned about safety. . . I absolutely give highest marks to these guys. If you don't have much Alpine experience, or just want the security of seasoned veterans guiding you up this mountain, then I strongly recommend you sign up with them. Thanks, guys, for a great experience!!"

George C
Highland, UT
malcom

"What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of a mountain we've gazed on from Portland for 25 years! . . . We learned a great deal, had a ton of fun, felt in very capable hands, and had the reward of summiting on a beautiful clear day. The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. Kudos to the TMG team who were responsive, supportive, and fun to work with every step of the way."

Malcolm C
Portland, OR
Lucyan

"We booked 2-day overnight program on Mt. Hood with Timberline Mountain Guides. Our guides were great, . . super friendly and reputable. The program did not go as planned due to inclement weather but we still had fun and good experience. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. I would recommend going with them if it's your first climbing trip on Mt. Hood for sure."

Lucyan
Portland, OR

Skill Series

Next Steps

  • the Coleman-Deming on Mount Baker takes you onto even bigger glaciers
  • a Crevasse Rescue Clinic is a good step to take prior to venturing onto more challenging glaciers
  • Climbers should come with prior steep snow climbing experience, or join us on an entry-level climb before joining this program

Know Before You Go

Prerequisites
  • Climbers should have one previous climb with us under their belt, or come with at least 3 steep snow climbs on your resume
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