Single-push, single-day ascents of Mount Hood’s technical routes demand an aggressive, ultra-efficient approach to packing. Every ounce carried impacts your speed and endurance across deep snow and steep couloirs. This streamlined checklist highlights the absolute bare essentials needed for high-speed alpine movement while maintaining the exact technical protective layers and steel hardware configurations required to surmount the upper crater headwalls safely.
Use this equipment list for one-day alpine routes on Mount Hood, including: West Crater Rim, Devil’s Kitchen Headwall, Wy’East Route, Reid Glacier Headwall, and Leuthold’s Couloir. This list also applies to the above routes, when climbed as part of a 2-day Summit Program.
You must have all the items on this list at your climber orientation regardless of season or forecast. Please call us if you have any questions. Your guide will not let you climb if you don’t have appropriate gear. Please arrive at your meet-time dressed for the activity. There will be time for questions and adjustments.
*RENTALS ARE AVAILABLE IN MAY, JUNE AND JULY ONLY
*Please note that if your meeting your guide in the middle of the night for a one-day alpine climb, no rentals are available.
Clothing
- Underwear – Wool or synthetic (ex: Men’s Ortovox Base Layers, Women’s Ortovox Base Layers )
- Socks – 2 pairs of wool or synthetic. Some people like a thinner wool sock with a liner sock underneath. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Socks, Women’s Ortovox Socks)
- Long Underwear – Medium weight tops and bottoms. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Base Layers, Women’s Ortovox Base Layers)
- T-shirt – Synthetic, quick-drying (ex: Men’s Ortovox T-Shirts, Women’s Ortovox T-Shirts)
- Lightweight Fleece Top (ex: Men’s Ortovox Hoodies and Fleece Jackets, Women’s Ortovox Hoodies and Fleece Jackets)
- Softshell Top (ex: Men’s Ortovox Softshell Jackets, Women’s Ortovox Softshell Jackets)
- Hiking/Softshell Pants (ex: Men’s Ortovox Softshell Pants, Men’s Ortovox Lightweight Pants, Women’s Ortovox Softshell Pants, Women’s Ortovox Lightweight Pants)
- Waterproof-breathable Pants – Waterproof, breathable pants without insulation; full-length side-zipper highly recommended for putting on over boots when the weather gets severe. Gore-Tex is one such material used by many manufacturers. (ex: Men’s Mammut Nordwand, Women’s Mammut Nordwand, Men’s Ortovox Hardshell Pants, Women’s Ortovox Hardshell Pants)
- Waterproof-breathable Jacket – Waterproof, breathable jacket without insulation; requires a helmet-compatible hood. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Hardshell Jacket, Women’s Ortovox Hardshell Jacket)
- Insulated Parka – Required, with a helmet-compatible hood and either down or Primaloft insulation. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Zinal Jacket, Women’s Ortovox Zinal Jacket) (Micro-puff jackets are too light for potential conditions.) *This item IS available for rent
- Light-weight Gloves – Windproof gloves, for warmer conditions. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Tour Glove, Women’s Ortovox Tour Glove)
- Medium-weight Gloves – Lightly insulated, waterproof. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Mountain Glove, Women’s Ortovox Mountain Glove)
- Heavy-weight Gloves/Mittens- Waterproof, insulated (ex: Men’s Ortovox Freeride Mitten, Women’s Ortovox Freeride Mitten)
- Warm Hat – Wool or synthetic, and snug enough to wear under a helmet. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Hats and Neckwarmers, Women’s Ortovox Hats and Neckwarmers)
- Buff, or Balaclava – Protection from wind, cold and sun. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Neckwarmers, Women’s Ortovox Neckwarmers)
- Sun Hat – The more coverage the better. Baseball caps or packable sun hats will work (ex: Outdoor Research Hats)
- Gaiters – For soft, slushy snow conditions. Gaiters can also protect from tripping and/or ripping pants with crampons. (ex: Outdoor Research Mountaineering Gaiters)
Personal Gear
- Lunch/Snacks – 1 lb per day of a variety of tasty, high energy foods
- Water Bottles – Two 1-liter bottles required. No bladders allowed for risk of freezing and/or breaking. (ex: Nalgene)
- Sunglasses or Glacier Glasses – Should be high-quality, dark, large and fit snugly or have side-shields. (ex: Julbo Mountain Sunglasses)
- Ski Goggles – Clear or light in color, in case of blowing snow. (ex: Julbo Goggles)
- Sun Block – SPF 30 or higher
- Lip Balm – SPF 15 or higher
- Toilet Paper – Just in case! Blue bags will be available at most trailheads.
- Headlamp – For alpine starts (ex: Petzl Headlamps)
- Personal First Aid Kit – Moleskin, ibuprofen, aspirin, antacids, personal prescriptions, band-aids.
Technical Climbing Gear – Items we rent
*RENTALS ARE AVAILABLE IN MAY, JUNE AND JULY ONLY
*If you are meeting your guide in the middle of the night for a one-day climb, no rentals are available.
- Mountaineering boots – Full-shank, insulated, waterproof mountaineering boots are required for all of our climbs. La Sportiva Nepal Evo, Scarpa Phantom Tech, Zamberlan Mountain Pro Evo, Koflach Degre, and Scarpa Inverno are available for rent.
- Crampons – 10 or 12-point, steel crampons. Aluminum crampons aren’t suitable for typical steep climbing in the Cascades. (ex: Petzl Vasak)
- Ice Axe – 50 to 65cm long. (ex: Petzl Summit)
- 2nd ice-tool – for steep snow and alpine ice
- Climbing Pack – 40-50 liter. Pack must have ice axe loops. (ex: Ortovox Peak 45)
- Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets – Highly recommended for saving energy on the way up and your knees on the descent. (ex: Leki Trekking Poles, Black Diamond Trekking Poles)
- Insulated Parka – Required, with a helmet-compatible hood and either down or Primaloft insulation. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Zinal Jacket, Women’s Ortovox Zinal Jacket) (Micro-puff jackets are too light for potential conditions.)
The following Technical Climbing Gear is available at our office at no charge
- Climbing Harness – Alpine-style (ex: Edelrid Loopo Lite, Petzl Altitude)
- Climbing Helmet – (ex: Edelrid Zodiac, Petzl Boreo)