MT. HOOD TWO-DAY SUMMIT PROGRAM ITINERARY
Meet time: Please refer to your confirmation email
Location: Your program will begin at the Timberline Ski Resort
- Before April 27th, you will meet in the “Climbers Register” – the open-air room at the entrance to the Wy’East Day Lodge
- Between April 28th and July 3rd, you will meet in the Timberline Mountain Guides’ Mountain Office inside the Wy’East Day Lodge
Day 1: Orientation and Steep Snow Climbing Course
After meeting your group and your guide, you can expect to spend a few minutes sorting and issuing gear, fitting boots and crampons, and going through logistics for the climb. If after reviewing the equipment list you still have questions about what to wear or bring on the climb, this is the time to ask, so please bring all of your gear with you. During this session, your guide will brief you on the current mountain and route conditions, weather, and the schedule for the rest of the climb.
Once everyone in your group has all the gear they need and all of the pre-climb logistics have been sorted, you’ll head out to begin the Steep Snow Climbing Course. Usually this involves just a short hike from the lodge, but you’ll want to come prepared for a day out on the snow. If the weather is fair, you often won’t need to bring all of the layers you’re planning on climbing in, but you will need waterproof shells, gloves, food, water and all of the technical climbing equipment for the climb. Please arrive at the office prepared for the day’s weather.
This course usually takes until early afternoon, and covers everything you’ll need to know to climb the mountain. Topics include footwork in mountain boots, crampon and ice axe techniques, rope systems, and self-arrest.
Please note that as the Two-Day Summit Program is not an overnight program, you will need to make arrangements for accommodations the night before your climb. Keep in mind that Timberline Lodge is a popular destination for travelers throughout the world, and it is often completely booked well before the summer climbing season begins.
Day 2: Climb Day
Your guide will let you know on Day 1 when and where you will meet the snowcat to begin your climb. Typically, you’ll meet at the Climbers’ Register at the lower entrance to the Wy’East Day Lodge sometime between 12:00 a.m. and 4:00 a.m. Once you’ve been through a final gear check, you’ll board the snowcat. The ride will transport you as high on the mountain as snow conditions allow – generally to between 7,000 and 8,400 feet – cutting hours off of the start of your day. From there, you’ll have to shoulder your pack and head up the mountain. Usually we’ll climb the South Side route and attempt the summit via one of many popular variations including the Old Chute and The Pearly Gates. Generally, you can expect to take about four to six hours on the way up, and three to four on the way down, making for a typical day of about seven to ten hours round-trip from Timberline Lodge. Any ascent of the South Side routes will include climbing on non-technical terrain as well as on steeper slopes of snow and possibly rock or ice. It is important to realize that there is no guarantee of summitting. Climbers in open group programs can be turned around for any reason, including but not limited to weather, mountain hazards, fitness, or to maintain the maximum climber-to-guide ratio of 3:1. Private Guides are available.
Once you’ve completed your descent to Timberline Lodge, we ask that you return promptly to the Timberline Mountain Guides’ office to de-issue any gear you may have rented. If you feel that you’ve had an exceptional experience, it is customary to tip your guide.
Ski Option: If you are at least an expert alpine or telemark skier you do have the option to ski the lower portion of the descent from the top of the ski resort at 8,500’ down to the lodge at 6,000’. For this to be safe and enjoyable, you need to have experience backcountry skiing with a heavy pack in variable conditions. Be honest with yourself regarding whether or not this seems right for you, but if it does it can be a great way to add a few turns to the day. Please let the office know in advance of your program if you’re thinking about bringing your skis.
What’s Included: We supply the guide, the ropes, the carabiners, the guide’s first aid kit, and the snowcat ride. Please note that food is not included.
What You Need to Bring: Please bring all of the gear that’s on the equipment list, including all of the technical climbing gear. If you don’t have any of the technical gear, it is your responsibility to reserve it from us or to rent from somewhere else. Please be sure to let us know at least seven days in advance if you will require rental gear from us. Please also read the equipment list carefully and call or email us if you have any questions. We’re here to help. You should also be sure to bring lunch, snacks and water for each day of your program.
Other Recommendations: We do not allow dogs on any TMG trips. Please leave your dog at home. We realize that your trip is a big investment. As guides, we can do our best to help you get to the top, but we can never hope to control the weather on or off the mountain. As a result, we highly recommend that you purchase travel insurance to protect yourself in the event that you encounter travel delays or other issues that may prevent you from making it to your program on time. The Travelex Insurance company offers great rates to protect your investment, and you can see their offerings here. We also ask that you review our Trip Preparation and Climber Requirements, as our Policies regarding trip cancellation, refunds, credits or rescheduling.
Directions to the Wy’East Day Lodge at Timberline Ski Resort:
Timberline Ski Resort is located on the south side of Mt. Hood in the Mt. Hood National Forest. Without traffic or inclement weather, it should take approximately 1hr 30mins from Portland or the Portland airport and approximately 2hrs 30mins from Bend or the Bend/Redmond airport. For those traveling to Oregon to climb Mt. Hood, we recommend flying into Portland as it is the closest major city to the mountain. Directions from the airport are provided below.
From the Portland International Airport:
- Follow signs to Interstate 205 S and Interstate 84/Portland/Salem
- Take I-205 S for 1.5 mi
- Take Exit 22 to merge onto I-84 East/U.S. 30 East towards The Dalles and follow that for approximately 8 mi
- Take Exit 16 for 238th Drive and Wood Village
- Turn right onto NE 238th Dr. and follow that for approximately 1 mi
- Continue onto NE 242nd Dr. and follow that for approximately 2 mi
- Turn left onto E. Powell Blvd. and follow that for approximately .5 mi until it turns into U.S. 26 East/Mt. Hood Hwy. and follow that for approximately 38 mi until you pass the town of Government Camp
- Turn left on the Timberline Rd./Timberline Hwy. and follow that for approximately 6 mi until you reach the Timberline Lodge and Ski Area.
- For guest staying at the Timberline Lodge, you may want to park in the upper lot by the main lodge. For all others, park in the lower lot. The lower, more modern of the two buildings is the Wy’East Day Lodge.
- The Climbers’ Register is located at the main, lower entrance facing the lower parking lot. Timberline Mountain Guides’ Mountain Office is located inside the building on the lower level, down the hall near the gift shop.
We thank you for choosing to climb with Timberline Mountain Guides and we look forward to seeing you on Mt. Hood!