Day 1: You will meet your guide in our office at the Wy’east Day Lodge. Exact meeting time will be determined once you register but it is typically between 8 a.m. and 10 a.m. You will spend about 30 minutes doing a gear check and fitting any rentals that you need. Then your guide will go over the route conditions and weather forecast. After that, your group will head out for your Steep Snow Climbing Clinic. Usually this involves a 10-30 minute hike from our office, to a steep sided snow gully that is a perfect classroom for learning and practicing mountaineering skills. We typically spend 3-4 hours learning all the basic skills you need to have a successful climb with us. Topics include footwork in mountain boots and crampons, as well as how to use an ice axe. Importantly, you’ll learn and practice how we use a rope and anchor systems during the summit day.
Day 2: You will meet your guide at the Climber’s Register, right outside of the Wy’east Day Lodge. We typically meet between midnight and 2 am - your guide will let you know the exact time. The climb begins with a snowcat ride to the upper slopes of the ski resort to an elevation of roughly 7,800 feet, depending on conditions. From there, we ascend snow covered slopes on foot until we begin climbing over steeper terrain between 9,000 and 10,000 feet in elevation.
The climbing continues to steepen significantly for the last 1,500 feet of climbing to the summit at 11,249’. Any guided ascent of Mt Hood entails climbing on ropes on very steep snow and ice. Typically, our route is via the Pearly Gates or the Old Chute. It generally takes 4 to 6 hours to reach the summit, where we only stay for a few short minutes - enough time for photos and a quick snack. We stay roped up for the descent, reversing the climbing route. It takes 3-4 hours to descend on foot all the way back down to the Timberline Lodge. You can expect to be finished with the climb around mid-day. At that time, you’ll head back to the office, switch into comfortable shoes and return your rental gear. Gratuity toward your guide is customary, if you feel that you’ve had a positive experience.
On summit day you will climb ~2-3,000 feet over the course of ~2 miles. You will then descend ~5-6,000 feet over the course of ~5-6 miles.
*Please note that the 2-day Mt Hood Summit Program is not an overnight program. You will need to make arrangements for accommodations the night before your climb. Lodging and food are available at the Timberline Lodge and in the nearby town of Government Camp. Book as soon as possible — this area is a popular destination for travelers throughout the world and is often fully booked before the summer climbing season begins.
Yes. We have selected the gear required for your program with great care in the hope that we will be prepared for any weather conditions. Although it may seem odd to need so much clothing in the Summer, we experience Winter conditions in the mountains above treeline throughout the year. Bring everything to the start of your program. Your guide will let you know if there are specific items that you don't need to carry based on up-to-date information about conditions.
Yes. This is critical piece of gear that we use during virtually every break. It is also valuable in an emergency.
A hardshell blocks precipitation and wind, so you'd wear this during a snow storm. A softshell blocks wind but lets perspiration out, so you'd wear it on a clear but windy sunny morning, when you're moving fast. We can have both these conditions - and many others - during one climb in the alpine.
Yes, you need both. Please arrive at the trailhead or meet-location with everything on the gear list.
There are three good lodging options for Mount Hood climbers:
- The Timberline Lodge is the closest lodging to our Mountain Office. It also books up well in advance
- The Best Western in Government Camp has lots of great food variety
- There are many vacation rentals available in the town of Government Camp
If you have had a recent injury, illness, or surgery, or if you have a medical condition such as asthma or allergies to food or medications, you should consult with us as well as your physician before signing up for any trip. If there is any doubt as to your ability to participate in this activity, you should have a physical examination by a physician.
Certainly, any type of aerobic exercise will help for the hike to and from the cliffs. Strength exercises in the gym will help, as well as a steady stretching regime. Climbing at a gym will help your strength and body movement skills prior to your day on the rock. See our page on Fitness Requirements.
Most climbers don’t realize being hydrated is one of the most important things climbers can do to prepare. Concentrate on good hydration and good rest during the 2-3 days prior to your climb. By arriving well hydrated for your climbing day, you’ll have a much better time, and so will your muscles.
We strongly recommend that climbers who register for our programs obtain travel insurance to protect themselves financially in the case that there is a disruption, or the need to cancel at the last-minute. We will uphold our written policies in all cases.
Guests occasionally inquire about rescue insurance, especially for remote climbing areas and international programs. Rescue insurance is distinct from travel insurance, and it's important to understand the differences. If you are interested in rescue insurance you may want to check with the American Alpine Club and their Global Rescue Service.
Climbing and mountaineering involve inherent risks - many that we can manage to a degree - some that are beyond our control. At the start of your program you will be asked to sign an Acknowledgement of Risk form. We recommend that you take the time to read this form prior to arriving. We invite you to call our office in advance if you have any questions about this form. You will be given time to ask questions again when you meet your guide.
By signing, you assume responsibility for all the risks associated with this activity, and you acknowledge the hazards that are beyond our control. We do not assume liability for injuries or death. All participants are completely responsible for all medical and hospital costs associated with any injury, rescue or evacuation. You go at your own risk.
While it is not required, it is customary to tip your guide. Any amount you tip will be greatly appreciated by your guide - consider food service as a basis for comparison and find a percentage of the bill that you are comfortable with, based on the service.
We do not share any information that you provide us at any time for any reason, except within our organization as required to ensure that everyone involved has all the required medical and emergency contact information. Read the Privacy Policy.