Wy’East Route

Ratio: 2:1
Length: 1 day
Price: 1 climber $575
2 climbers $530
Dates: Custom dates available in April and May
Location: South side of Mount Hood

The Wy’East Route is named after the mountain itself. Long before it was known as Mount Hood, the native Multnomah tribe’s name for it was Wy’East, and it is a quality, but less frequented route to the summit. The Wy’East Route begins the climb as any south side route does, from the Timberline Lodge either by snowcat or on foot.

Our favorite way of reaching the Wy’East is by climbing one of several advanced variations of the Devil’s Kitchen Headwall. Advanced climbers on Mt. Hood can find themselves on this route after topping out a steeper ice line lower on the mountain. This climb is well suited for a climber looking to get away from some of the crowds on the standard south side route. In addition, those who are looking for a beautiful mountain experience should look no further.

We can also access the Wy’East route by crossing the White River Glacier and ascending the East shoulder of the mountain. This route is more roundabout, but involves a bit less technical climbing. We descend via a standard south side route, and hike or ski back to the Timberline Lodge.

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Wy'East Route

South side of Mount Hood

The Wy’East is a step up from the Old Chute in terms of technical difficulty. It entails a few pitches of steep alpine ice to access the summit plateau. Combined with the Devil’s Kitchen Headwall, this makes for a full alpine route with several pitches of alpine ice and steep snow, with a relatively easy approach, by alpine climbing standards, that is!

Elevation: 11,239 feet
Style: Steep snow up to 50°
Skill Level: Difficult
Wyeast- Mtn
george

"I am very happy with my TMG experience. The guides were professional, personable, and extremely concerned about safety. . . I absolutely give highest marks to these guys. If you don't have much Alpine experience, or just want the security of seasoned veterans guiding you up this mountain, then I strongly recommend you sign up with them. Thanks, guys, for a great experience!!"

George C
Highland, UT
malcom

"What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of a mountain we've gazed on from Portland for 25 years! . . . We learned a great deal, had a ton of fun, felt in very capable hands, and had the reward of summiting on a beautiful clear day. The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. Kudos to the TMG team who were responsive, supportive, and fun to work with every step of the way."

Malcolm C
Portland, OR
Lucyan

"We booked 2-day overnight program on Mt. Hood with Timberline Mountain Guides. Our guides were great, . . super friendly and reputable. The program did not go as planned due to inclement weather but we still had fun and good experience. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. I would recommend going with them if it's your first climbing trip on Mt. Hood for sure."

Lucyan
Portland, OR

Skill Series

Next Steps

  • The Cooper Spur combines steep snow with the commitment of climbing with overnight packs.
  • Broaden your climbing resume with an alpine rock program

Know Before You Go

Prerequisites
Equipment Lists
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Fitness Requirements
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