Two pitches of technical ice climbing (WI3-4) highlights this classic pacific northwest alpine climb. The route is accessed from the Eliot Glacier, and often includes a challenging bergschrund crossing. After the ‘schrund, a pitch of steep ice guards either of two entrances to the face. Whichever you choose, , possibly crossing over a snow/rock rib to access the second, typically steeper second ice step. Your climb culminates in a mantle-move directly on to the snowy summit, where you’ll typically be greeted by surprised South Side climbers.
Approaching the North Face
Our climb begins when we meet at the Cloud Cap Trailhead on the North Side of Mt. Hood. We’ll shoulder our packs and hike through the forest before leaving tree line behind. We’ll gain the Eliot Glacier and make camp as close to the base of the route as possible.
Climbing the North Face
Breaking camp before the sun rises, our first step of the climb is navigating the bergschrund of the Eliot Glacier. Conditions can vary, but we generally find some steep ice low on the route. Generally the middle of the route will back off in angle, but can be solid ice or consolidated snow for hundreds and hundreds of feet. Continuing on up the route we expect a second crux ice step up higher on the route. Steep snow takes us to the summit. We will descend down a standard south side route to the Timberline Lodge.