The North Face of Mount Hood

Ratio:2:1
Length:2 days
Price:1 climber $900
2+ $550 per climber
Dates:Custom dates are available in the Spring
Location:Eliot Glacier approach

Two pitches of technical ice climbing (WI3-4) highlights this classic pacific northwest alpine climb. The route is accessed from the Eliot Glacier, and often includes a challenging bergschrund crossing. After the ‘schrund, a pitch of steep ice guards either of two entrances to the face. Whichever you choose, , possibly crossing over a snow/rock rib to access the second, typically steeper second ice step. Your climb culminates in a mantle-move directly on to the snowy summit, where you’ll typically be greeted by surprised South Side climbers.

Approaching the North Face

Our climb begins when we meet at the Cloud Cap Trailhead on the North Side of Mt. Hood. We’ll shoulder our packs and hike through the forest before leaving tree line behind. We’ll gain the Eliot Glacier and make camp as close to the base of the route as possible.

Climbing the North Face

Breaking camp before the sun rises, our first step of the climb is navigating the bergschrund of the Eliot Glacier. Conditions can vary, but we generally find some steep ice low on the route. Generally the middle of the route will back off in angle, but can be solid ice or consolidated snow for hundreds and hundreds of feet. Continuing on up the route we expect a second crux ice step up higher on the route. Steep snow takes us to the summit. We will descend down a standard south side route to the Timberline Lodge.

Get Started

Interested in a trip? Call us today to get started on your trip reservation. We will take the time to place you on the expedition that is a fit for you.

(541) 312-9242

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The North Face of Mount Hood

Eliot Glacier approach

The North Face of Mt. Hood has the best reliable ice climbing in the state. A classic Pacific Northwest test piece, this route climbs thousands of feet of steep snow and ice, and ends with a snowy mantle directly onto the summit. We climb the North Face Gullies in two days, approaching the climb on day 1. This is an overnight alpine climb, and we carry packs up and over the mountain. Expect a strenuous two days.

Elevation:11,239 feet
Style:Two steps of water ice climbing (WI 3) and steep snow up to 55°
Skill Level:Advanced
HoodNF- Mtn
george

"I am very happy with my TMG experience. The guides were professional, personable, and extremely concerned about safety. . . I absolutely give highest marks to these guys. If you don't have much Alpine experience, or just want the security of seasoned veterans guiding you up this mountain, then I strongly recommend you sign up with them. Thanks, guys, for a great experience!!"

George C
Highland, UT
malcom

"What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of a mountain we've gazed on from Portland for 25 years! . . . We learned a great deal, had a ton of fun, felt in very capable hands, and had the reward of summiting on a beautiful clear day. The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. Kudos to the TMG team who were responsive, supportive, and fun to work with every step of the way."

Malcolm C
Portland, OR
Lucyan

"We booked 2-day overnight program on Mt. Hood with Timberline Mountain Guides. Our guides were great, . . super friendly and reputable. The program did not go as planned due to inclement weather but we still had fun and good experience. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. I would recommend going with them if it's your first climbing trip on Mt. Hood for sure."

Lucyan
Portland, OR

Skill Series

Next Steps

  • The Jefferson Park Glacier combines steep snow and alpine ice climbing in glaciated terrain, with a knife-edge rock ridge and difficult summit pinnacle.
  • North Ridge of Mount Baker is another great alpine ice route, with lots of steep snow and difficult glacier travel to access the climbing.

Know Before You Go

Prerequisites

To get ready for this climb

  • Take our Glacier Ice Climbing Clinic or build winter ice-climbing experience in Colorado or New England.
  • Climb the Fisher Chimneys on Mount Shuksan to build experience on complex glaciers, and to build comfoidence on long days with lots of transitions between climbing styles.
  • Climb the Cooper Spur and Reid Glacier Headwall, complementary snow and ice routes that are challenging, but less committing than the North Face of Hood.
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