Equipment List: Broken Top Alpine Routes

Use this equipment list is for snow climbs on Broken Top, including: the North Face and the 11 O’Clock Couloir. This is the same equipment you will need if combining this program with a Steep Snow Climbing Clinic to prepare for the climb.

You must have all the items on this list at your climber orientation regardless of season or forecast. Please call us if you have any questions. Your guide will not let you climb if you don’t have appropriate gear. Please arrive at your meet-time dressed for the activity. There will be time for questions and adjustments.

Clothing

  • Underwear – Wool or synthetic
  • Socks – Wool or synthetic.
  • Long Underwear – Medium weight tops and bottoms.
  • T-shirt – Synthetic, quick-drying
  • Lightweight Fleece Shirt – For example, the Patagonia R1 Hoody
  • Softshell Jacket – Ex: Mammut Ultimate Alpine Hoody
  • Softshell Pants Ex: Courmayeur Advanced Pants
  • Shell Pants – Waterproof, breathable pants with a full-length side-zipper for putting on over boots when the weather gets severe. Gore-Tex is one such material used by many manufacturers.
  • Shell jacket – Requires a helmet-compatible hood.
  • Insulated jacket – Required, with a helmet-compatible hood and either down or Primaloft insulation. For example, Mammut’s Rime Pro Jacket. (Micro-puff jackets are too light for expected conditions.)
  • Lightweight Gloves – Windproof gloves, for warmer conditions. For example, the Black Diamond Arc
  • Mediumweight Gloves – Lightly insulated. For example, Black Diamond’s Kingpin glove.
  • Heavyweight Waterproof Gloves – For example, Black Diamond Guide Glove
  • Warm Hat – Wool or synthetic, and snug enough to wear under a helmet.
  • Buff, or Balaclava – Protection from wind, cold and sun.
  • Sun Hat – The more coverage the better.
  • Gaiters – For soft, slushy snow conditions. OR brand work best over plastic mountaineering boots.

Personal Gear

  • Lunch/Snacks – 1 lb per day of a variety of tasty, high energy foods
  • Water Bottles – Two 1-liter bottles required. No bladders
  • Water Bottle Parkas (optional) – For early-season and overnight climbs
  • Sunglasses or Glacier Glasses – Should be high-quality, dark, large and fit snugly or have side-shields.
  • Ski Goggles – Clear or light in color, for riding on the snowmobile and in case of blowing snow.
  • Sun Block – SPF 30 or higher
  • Lip Balm – SPF 15 or higher
  • Toilet Paper – Just in case! Blue bags will be available at most trailheads.
  • Headlamp – For alpine starts
  • Personal First Aid Kit – Moleskin, ibuprofen, aspirin, antacids, personal prescriptions, band-aids.

Technical Climbing Gear

  • Mountaineering boots – Full-shank, insulated, waterproof mountaineering boots are required for all of our climbs. For example, La Sportiva Nepal Evo, Scarpa Phantom Guide.
  • Crampons – 10 or 12-point, steel crampons. Aluminum crampons aren’t suitable for typical steep climbing in the Cascades. Examples are the Black Diamond Sabretooth and Serac.
  • Ice Axe – 50 to 65cm long. For example, Black Diamond’s Raven.
  • 2nd ice-tool – for steep snow and alpine ice
  • Climbing Pack – 25-40 liters  
  • Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets – Highly recommended for saving energy and your knees.
  • Insulated jacket – Required, with a helmet-compatible hood and either down or Primaloft insulation. For example, Mammut’s Rime Pro Jacket. (Micro-puff jackets are too light for expected conditions.)

We can provide the following equipment upon request

  • Climbing Harness – Alpine-style, for example, the Black Diamond Couloir
  • Carabiners – 1 non-locking, 1 locking
  • Climbing Helmet – For example, the Black Diamond Half Dome.