Equipment List: Broken Top Alpine Routes

Use this equipment list is for snow climbs on Broken Top, including: the North Face and the 11 O’Clock Couloir. This is the same equipment you will need if combining this program with a Steep Snow Climbing Clinic to prepare for the climb.

You must have all the items on this list at your climber orientation regardless of season or forecast. Please call us if you have any questions. Your guide will not let you climb if you don’t have appropriate gear. Please arrive at your meet-time dressed for the activity. There will be time for questions and adjustments.

Please note that we are UNABLE to provide rental equipment for programs outside of Mount Hood. This includes trips in the Three Sisters Wilderness and in Washington State. Click here for information about rental outfits in the area of your trip.

Clothing

Underwear – Wool or synthetic (ex: Men’s Ortovox Base Layers, Women’s Ortovox Base Layers )
Socks – 2 pairs of wool or synthetic. Some people like a thinner wool sock with a liner sock underneath. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Socks, Women’s Ortovox Socks)
Long Underwear – Medium weight tops and bottoms. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Base Layers, Women’s Ortovox Base Layers)
T-shirt – Synthetic, quick-drying (ex: Men’s Ortovox T-Shirts, Women’s Ortovox T-Shirts)
Lightweight Fleece Top (ex: Men’s Ortovox Hoodies and Fleece Jackets, Women’s Ortovox Hoodies and Fleece Jackets)
Softshell Top (ex: Men’s Ortovox Softshell Jackets, Women’s Ortovox Softshell Jackets)
Hiking/Softshell Pants (ex: Men’s Ortovox Softshell Pants, Men’s Ortovox Lightweight Pants, Women’s Ortovox Softshell Pants, Women’s Ortovox Lightweight Pants)
Waterproof-breathable Pants – Waterproof, breathable pants without insulation; full-length side-zipper highly recommended for putting on over boots when the weather gets severe. Gore-Tex is one such material used by many manufacturers. (ex: Men’s Mammut Nordwand, Women’s Mammut Nordwand, Men’s Ortovox Hardshell Pants, Women’s Ortovox Hardshell Pants)
Waterproof-breathable Jacket – Waterproof, breathable jacket without insulation; requires a helmet-compatible hood. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Hardshell Jacket, Women’s Ortovox Hardshell Jacket)
Insulated Parka – Required, with a helmet-compatible hood and either down or Primaloft insulation. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Zinal Jacket, Women’s Ortovox Zinal Jacket) (Micro-puff jackets are too light for potential conditions.)
Light-weight Gloves – Windproof gloves, for warmer conditions. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Tour Glove, Women’s Ortovox Tour Glove)
Medium-weight Gloves – Lightly insulated, waterproof. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Mountain Glove, Women’s Ortovox Mountain Glove)
Heavy-weight Gloves/Mittens- Waterproof, insulated (ex: Men’s Ortovox Freeride Mitten, Women’s Ortovox Freeride Mitten)
Warm Hat – Wool or synthetic, and snug enough to wear under a helmet. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Hats and Neckwarmers, Women’s Ortovox Hats and Neckwarmers)
Buff, or Balaclava – Protection from wind, cold and sun. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Neckwarmers, Women’s Ortovox Neckwarmers)
Sun Hat – The more coverage the better. Baseball caps or packable sun hats will work (ex: Outdoor Research Hats)
Gaiters – For soft, slushy snow conditions. Gaiters can also protect from tripping and/or ripping pants with crampons. (ex: Outdoor Research Mountaineering Gaiters)

Personal Gear

Lunch/Snacks – 1 lb per day of a variety of tasty, high energy foods
Water Bottles – Two 1-liter bottles required. No bladders allowed for risk of freezing and/or breaking. (ex: Nalgene)
Sunglasses or Glacier Glasses – Should be high-quality, dark, large and fit snugly or have side-shields. (ex: Julbo Mountain Sunglasses)
Ski Goggles – Clear or light in color, in case of blowing snow. (ex: Julbo Goggles)
Sun Block – SPF 30 or higher
Lip Balm – SPF 15 or higher
Toilet Paper – Just in case! Blue bags will be available at most trailheads.
Headlamp – For alpine starts (ex: Petzl Headlamps)
Personal First Aid Kit – Moleskin, ibuprofen, aspirin, antacids, personal prescriptions, band-aids.

Technical Climbing Gear

Please note that we are UNABLE to provide rental equipment for this trip. Click here for information about rental outfits in the area of your trip.

Mountaineering boots – Full-shank, insulated, waterproof mountaineering boots are required for all of our climbs. La Sportiva Nepal Evo, Scarpa Phantom Tech, Zamberlan Mountain Pro Evo, Koflach Degre, and Scarpa Inverno are available for rent.
Crampons – 10 or 12-point, steel crampons. Aluminum crampons aren’t suitable for typical steep climbing in the Cascades. (ex: Petzl Vasak)
Snowshoes – Sometimes needed for climbs in April and May. Please enquire with the office if you will need these provided.
Ice Axe – 50 to 65cm long. (ex: Petzl Summit)
2nd ice-tool – for steep snow and alpine ice (ex: Petzl Quark)
Climbing Pack – 40-50 liter. Pack must have ice axe loops. (ex: Ortovox Peak 45)
Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets – Highly recommended for saving energy on the way up and your knees on the descent. (ex: Leki Trekking Poles, Black Diamond Trekking Poles)
Insulated Parka – Required, with a helmet-compatible hood and either down or Primaloft insulation. (ex: Men’s Ortovox Zinal Jacket, Women’s Ortovox Zinal Jacket) (Micro-puff jackets are too light for potential conditions.)