Bisecting the state of Oregon, the Southern Cascades provide the climber with some classic peaks and lots of lesser known treasures. At the North end climbers will marvel at the dramatic peak of Mt. Hood. At the Southern end of the range you will find the grand Mt. Shasta.
Whether you want to climb glaciated peaks or alpine rock come find out what the Oregon Cascades have to offer!
The immense crater of Broken Top includes some classic snow climbs like the Nine O'Clock Couloir and fantastic access to steep skiing. In the early part of the season, we are looking for steep snow climbing. Later in the year the Northwest Ridge is a scenic route with a short section of climbing. If you are looking for a winter or early spring climb, Broken Top is a great choice.
Middle Sister is a great first trip for any beginner climber seeking some moderate snow climbing combined with a summit climb. We typically introduce folks to camping and climbing by heading in to climb the North Ridge Route. If you are interested in spring skiing, this area offers some of the best variety of terrain from gentle glaciers to steep ridges.
Standing 11,240 feet above the mighty Columbia River, Oregon’s highest peak offers technical climbing routes for the aspiring alpinist and is home to some classic alpine test pieces for the experienced climber. Often noted as the second most climbed glaciated peak after Mt. Fuji, an ascent of Mt. Hood by any route is a technical climb requiring the use of ice axe and crampons. With great access, climbers are treated to a technical climb on a big peak that is reasonably doable in one day- it’s as close to climbing in Europe one can get without the trans-Atlantic flight! The close proximity to a major metropolitan area, a road to 6,000 feet, as well as year round skiing makes Mt Hood an interesting place in general.
Mt. Jefferson has the distinction of being Oregon's second highest peak. The standard South Ridge Route has some steep snow and a bit of easy rock climbing to gain the summit pinnacle. There are several spectacular routes on the mountain, including the ultra-classic Jefferson Park Glacier. If you are interested in a challenging spring climb, consider the West Rib Route. If you are looking for a mid-summer climb and have technical climbing experience choose the Jefferson Park Glacier. All routes on Mt. Jefferson require significant previous experience.
Mt. Washington hosts three routes on its rocky summit. There is no better place in the Oregon Cascades to try out your alpine rock climbing skills. For those starting out, the North Ridge Route is the route of choice. For those looking at a longer, more difficult climb we suggest the long Southeast Ridge, or the steeper and more difficult West Ridge.
North Sister is an often overlooked peak that has two classic climbs on it; The South Ridge and the Northeast Ridge. Each of these climbs has very steep snow or ice climbing with a much more reasonable approach than Mt. Jefferson. For this reason, 'North' is a great test of endurance if you are considering any of the climbs on Mt. Jefferson. While many folks wait until late season to climb it, our guides prefer the steep snow of early season to the shattered rock of late season. Significant previous experience is required for any North Sister climbs.
South Sister is primarily known as one of the area's premier hikes to the summit of an actual volcano. However, the Prouty Glacier Headwall on the northeast side of the mountain is an exciting climbing objective for someone who is interested in an out-of-the-way, moderately steep snow climb. As far as ski objectives go, South Sister has a wealth of great lines on many sides of the mountain with great access for a one day ski trip from the summit of a mountain.
Three Fingered Jack has an exciting, but fairly easy section of rock climbing on its summit pinnacle. This is a great climb for anyone looking to try out rock climbing in an alpine setting. Great access from Santiam Pass makes this climb a great candidate for a one day ascent