The South Ridge of Three Fingered Jack is a great option for those climbers looking for very exciting alpine rock climbing. After about a 5 mile approach on the beautiful Pacific Crest Trail, the climb begins in earnest. We’ll leave the main trail, and head up a steep climber’s trail that gains the South Ridge of the peak. At the ridge, we often take a break, get geared up and get ready for the technical section of the climb.
It starts out with some easy scrambling to warm up, and the ridge progressively get narrower and narrower until the first big obstacle is encountered: “The Crawl”. This area is a very narrow traverse above the expansive east face of the mountain. This area of the climb always provides the climber with a bit of pause…. the holds are good, and the exposure is very exciting. After this traverse, the gets a bit easier for a while before it rears up again on the final summit climb, with 2 more pitches of exposed climbing in an amazing position. The summit of Three Fingered Jack is little larger than the average dining room table, and some climbers have reported that it sways in the breeze! We aren’t so sure about that, but it is certainly Oregon’s smallest summit!
We are able to schedule this program with the summit attempt on Mondays- Thursdays only!