Oregon's Climbing Seasons

Here in Oregon, we have a wealth of climbing opportunities. There are a surprising number of climbing venue choices and a lot depends on the season, as well as what kind of weather we are having. Paying close attention to seasonal changes and conditions can help you narrow down your climb choices, providing you with an appropriate climbing experience to suit your goals.

Winter storms in the Oregon Cascades tend to be savage, windy and wet, leaving the slopes above tree line either wind blown or dangerously loaded with snow on the leeward sides. With the coming of the New Year most of us are out looking for powder skiing, usually below the tree line.

When we do get clear and cold weather in the winter, our attentions turn to the steep snow and ice routes of the Oregon Cascades. For alpine climbing, these high winds and heavy deposits of snow turn our mountains into a veritable winter playground... when the weather clears. It is at this time of year that our mountains have the least amount of visitors and the wilderness areas are in their most pristine state.

Some of our favorite climbs at this time of year to guide are on the peaks that have the best access as many of the summer trailheads are inaccessible. These include Mt. Hood and Broken Top. Both of these peaks have ski areas nearby with winter maintained roads, which enable us to get within striking distance, without feeling like we have to walk for days just to get to the mountain. If you are thinking about climbing in the greater ranges of the world, the hard lessons learned in winter in the Oregon Cascades can be very valuable.

For the rock enthusiast, mid-winter can be a great time to climb at Smith Rock State Park on clear days. In fact, most of the locals prefer to climb in the winter at the park. Down in the canyon, temperatures can often be twenty to thirty degrees warmer than in the nearby town of Redmond, providing surprising relief from what felt like winter just a few hours ago.

As spring approaches, the storm cycles begin to alternate with some clearer weather. With the higher percentage warmer, sunnier days, and the clear cold nights, we start seeing the formation of ice in the mountains. This is Oregon’s premier season for ice and snow routes. For climbers with a watchful eye on the weather and conditions, this can be a very rewarding time for alpine climbing. Some of our favorite climbs to guide at this time of year are found on Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Broken Top and Middle Sister and North Sister. As the winter snows recede in the forest, trailheads become more accessible allowing better access to the peaks of the Central Oregon Cascades.

Springtime also heralds the start of the traditional Ski Mountaineering season in Oregon. Often our ski season lasts well into summer. It is at this time of year that the sun works it magic, warming the winter hardened snow slopes into seemingly unlimited acres of corn snow. For a trip into the mountains with backcountry skiing in mind, this is the time to go!

At Smith Rock State Park in the spring, the Crooked River is at its highest and we begin to see the normally drab foliage of the central Oregon desert turn green. With long days of sunshine, we might begin climbing in the sun on a crisp morning, only to be chasing shade later in the day. When it is raining on the west slopes of the Cascades, it is often dry and sunny here. Springtime at Smith Rock should not be missed.

By mid to late May, the typical winter jet stream begins to lift away from the Northwest, and we begin to see more extended periods of good weather in the mountains. This is often the time of year when good weather and good snow conditions both coincide for long periods of time allowing a high percentage of good climbing odds in the mountains. This is the start of the summer mountaineering season and good snow conditions on Mt. Hood can often prevail into late July.

By August, freezing levels in the Oregon Cascades are high and tend to stay high for days on end. While the weather is typically fantastic, some south facing routes melt out and become dangerously unstable. The standard Southside Route on Mt. Hood usually becomes un-climbable at this time of year, due the warm temperatures, poor snow conditions and increased rock fall hazard. Almost all trails are snow free, allowing those interested in alpine hikes the chance to get out and enjoy the mountains.

It is at this time of year that we turn our attention to the other peaks in Oregon as they are a bit less conditions dependent than Mt. Hood. We typically guide on North, Middle and South Sister, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Jefferson during this period. It is also the prime season for alpine rock climbs with most of the snow melted off the climbs.

This is also an excellent time of year to brush up on Alpine Skills on the Eliot Glacier on the north side of Mt. Hood. One of the most easily accessible glaciers in the Lower 48, the Eliot Glacier is an incredible wonderland of mazes of crevasses which provide us with an ideal teaching ground for ice climbing, crevasse rescue and glacier navigation.

The warm days and cool nights of autumn allow the alpine rock climbing season to continue as most of the snow routes are completely gone. If you decide to go for a climb of Mt. Washington or Three Fingered Jack after Labor Day, it’s unlikely that you’ll see any people. Most locals prefer to go ice climbing on the Eliot Glacier during this time as the cool nights make the ice firm. This provides great practice for winter waterfall ice climbing.

Autumn is arguably the best time to visit Smith Rock State Park for the rock climber. The reliably clear weather is hard to beat and the heat of summer is long gone. With most of the mountain routes out of condition it is the time of year to focus on rock climbing. These excellent weather conditions can often last until Thanksgiving.

Whatever time of year you choose to climb, we can help you choose a challenging and rewarding climbing trip to meet your goals. Whether it’s Winter, Spring, Summer or Fall, you’ll find a wealth of fantastic climbing opportunities in Oregon.

back to top